March 8, 2009
Granny's little helper
Watching his Peranakan grandmother cook influenced Daniel Sia in his decision to be a chef
By Fiona Low
When Daniel Sia took a holiday job as service staff at Delifrance in 1992, little did he realise he was about to embark on a lifelong love affair with cooking.
Four days after returning to school, the then-Secondary 5 student at Tampines Secondary decided to drop out to pursue a career in the culinary arts.
The 33-year-old is now head chef at The White Rabbit, a European restaurant and bar located in Harding Road.
He received a scholarship from cafe chain Delifrance and spent a year in hotel and tourism college Shatec, where he completed a certificate in food preparation.
Since then, he has amassed an impressive portfolio. He was one of the two head chefs who started the Marmalade restaurant group in 1999, and he went abroad for stints at some of the world's most prestigious French restaurants, such as London's Le Gavroche in 1999 and Shanghai's Le Platane in 2006.
Now on hindsight, the father of two says that while he would have liked to have completed his O-levels, he does not regret pursuing his passion.
'It's about making people happy,' he says. 'And if someone tells me they enjoy my food, that makes me happy.'
Who influenced you most in becoming a chef?
My late maternal grandmother, who was a great cook. I spent a lot of time watching her in the kitchen while she prepared Peranakan dishes.
When she got older and couldn't go to the market because her legs were too weak, she would send me to buy the ingredients instead. She gave me a lot of tips on how to choose fresh ingredients.
What was your biggest challenge in becoming a chef?
People used to think cooking was a dirty job, that only those with poor educational qualifications did it. Also, cooks were often stereotyped as gamblers or drug addicts. It is only in recent years that the public's perception has gotten better.
You trained in French cuisine at Les Amis restaurant. What is a common misconception about French cuisine?
That it is expensive and comes in small portions, or that they only serve snails with garlic butter. French cuisine is about using fresh produce and applying proper techniques.
What was the first dish you made?
It must have been a salad because after I quit school, I joined Delifrance and worked as a garde manger - a supervisor that handles cold foods.
What is your comfort food?
Bak kut teh, because after a hard day's work, the hot soup and rice are very comforting. I'm not particular about where it has to come from, but there is a stall at Alexandra Village Food Centre that is quite good.
Growing up, what was your favourite dish?
Hainanese chicken rice. I could eat it every day. Now, I eat it about once a month at this corner shop opposite Novena Church. I like the flavour of the rice and the chicken is cooked just right.
What do you think is the most amazing ingredient on earth?
Truffles. It cannot be grown artificially and the aroma just hits you. I can create a 12-course menu with it.
If you could cook for anyone in the world, who would it be?
Maybe British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay. Just to see if he will hurl expletives at me or call me a donkey, like he does in his TV shows.
What is your favourite meal to prepare for your family?
Claypot rice with preserved meats because it does not take a long time to prepare or clean up after. When I am not working, I like to relax by cooking simpler dishes.
What is your signature dish?
Tournedoes Rossini (above), a decadent dish of tenderloin stacked with foie gras and topped off with truffles. The tenderloin is slow-cooked and then pan-fried to give the meat a roasted flavour on the outside while retaining a melt-in-your-mouth texture on the inside.
All three elements in this dish are not marinated. It is a testament to what classic French cuisine seeks to achieve - simplicity with an emphasis on fresh produce.
WHAT WOULD YOUR LAST MEAL BE?
Nonya mee siam because I like how the gravy and noodles complement each other without one taste overpowering the other. It was one of my grandmother's signature dishes. She always cooked that at family gatherings.
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