Feb 15, 2009
Add a pinch of love
The best food is nothing when it does not come from the heart, says Pascal Tingaud
By Fiona Low
P ascal Tingaud always knew that he wanted to be a chef. After all, his father and grandfather were chefs. Home for him was the family restaurant, L'Auberge de Conde, a two-Michelin star restaurant in La Ferte-sous-Jouarre, France. Much of his youth was spent in its kitchen developing a love for the culinary arts.
His desire became more urgent after his father died when he was 12, and his grandfather had to take over the daily duties at the restaurant.
Under his grandfather's tutelage, he was even more certain that this was the path he wanted to follow. At age 16, he entered the Ecole Hoteliere Jean Drouant in Paris to begin his formal training.
Since then, this amiable Frenchman has travelled the world to cook at some of the most prestigious restaurants in the industry, such as Les Freres Troisgros in Roanne, a three-Michelin star restaurant. He was also chef to former French President Giscard d'Estaing.
The 49-year-old is now the appointed chef at Ch�teau de Saran, home of famed champagne label Moet & Chandon, where he works to create new food pairings with the tipple. The historic Moet family residence now hosts private guests such as visiting royalties and dignitaries.
Chef Tingaud last visited Singapore in April 2007, when he was specially flown in for the launch of the Dom Perignon Vintage 1999. Then, only 14 guests were lucky enough to experience the dinner he prepared.
However, all is not lost for those eager to try his cooking as he may be coming to Singapore again this year, said Moet & Chandon's representative.
Currently based in the French province of Champagne, he says that he hopes that his 20-year-old son will follow in his footsteps, continuing the tradition in his family. But the young man has set his sights on becoming a wine maker instead.
'Nobody's perfect,' Chef Tingaud joked. 'But seriously, I want him to do what he loves, because it is the only way to do it well.'
Who influenced you most strongly in your desire to become a chef?
Other than my father and grandfather, I have been influenced by many of the chefs that I have met during my career. In particular, Jacques Pic and brothers Pierre and Jean Troisgros.
What was it like to cook for President Giscard d'Estaing?
I was accepted into the Presidential Palace kitchen after graduating from catering college, and I spent a year and a half at the Elysees Palace.
The style was very traditional French haute cuisine and quality was extremely important. We also had to be familiar with protocol because some ingredients can be used in certain countries and not others, so we had to always adapt the menus to the requirements of visiting dignitaries.
The president's favourite dish was scrambled eggs with freshly shaved truffles.
You have been to Singapore five times in the past. What do you think of it?
Singapore has a fantastic blend of cultures and cuisines. This palette of different tastes provides inspiration for my job. I particularly enjoyed Ritz Carlton's Sunday Brunch for its wide variety. I also love Hokkien noodles, bak kut teh (pork rib soup) and satay (grilled meat skewers).
What is your signature dish?
A tartare of salmon, avocado and mango with Prunier St James Caviar (above).
What is your ultimate comfort food?
Warm Japanese sticky rice with cold caviar. It is simple to prepare, with only two ingredients, but it creates a very complex result. Black and white, cold and warm, salted and unsalted - all in a single dish.
What do you always have in your refrigerator?
Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2003, and sometimes also Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2003 Rose.
What is your favourite smell in the kitchen?
The smell of crepes (a thin French pancake) because it was a smell that was always in the family restaurant when I was a child. In France, we call this my 'madeleine de Proust' (something that brings back a childhood memory).
What do you cook most often for your son?
He loves it when I prepare filet of sole for him because he loves fish. Actually, he loves to cook himself and he also cooks for me.
If you could have anyone in the world cook for you, who would it be, and why?
My girlfriend, because the best food is nothing without love. When you cook for someone, you give a part of your love.
What is your favourite Moet & Chandon champagne and why?
The next vintage, because each new one is always fascinating. It is always a new challenge for a chef to work with the wine maker to create recipes for new wine pairings. It is always a new discovery.
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